Grave Ramblings: Dark Tourism and the Cemeteries of the French Riviera

My contribution to this month’s All About France blog link-up hosted by Lou Messugo is nothing at all to do with Christmas.  In fact, it’s as unfestive as you can get but I thought I would write about dark tourism and some of the famous people who lived and are laid to rest in the cemeteries on the French Riviera.

What is Dark Tourism?

Dark tourism is travel (and tourism) that involves visiting places connected to death, tragedy or disaster.   There is a growing interest in places that historically may have been off-limits to visit, but there’s no denying that people are attracted to sites like this.

War tourism – visiting battlefields and famous fortresses – has been firmly stamped on tourism sectors for decades, and now tour operators are expanding their tour itineraries to cater for dark tourism.  Everyone from National Geographic to the Economist is debating whether it’s the right thing to do.  Regardless, this market for tourism is here to stay.

Some of the world’s most popular dark tourism locations include visiting the Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris to see the gravesites of Jim Morrison or Edith Piaf, seeing the Phnom Sampeau killing caves in Cambodia, visiting Chernobyl’s fallout zone or learning about the history of the Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camps.

Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris is one of the world’s most visited cemeteries

It does seem strange to say a location is ‘popular’ because of its macabre or sombre history, but you’ll find wherever there is death or tragedy a tour operator will be waiting in the wings to snap up income from keen tourists.

Dark Tourism on the French Riviera 

The sunny French Riviera doesn’t escape dark tourism.  While we always see promotional tourism here highlight the beaches, the Riviera lifestyle and year-round activities, there are many tourists who are visiting to catch a slice of history and follow in the footsteps of famous people who lived, and more profoundly died here.

It could be possible I’m the only blogger highlighting the region’s cemeteries as a tourism attraction?!   Undoubtedly, not only do cemeteries on the Côte d’Azur have famous ‘residents’, but many of them occupy prime real estate with some of the best views in south-east France!

You can’t deny this spectacular view! Vieux Château cemetery in Menton (image: Menton Tourism)

Here are some grave ramblings for the French Riviera:

Paul Ricard

The founder of Ricard pastis bought the tiny Île de Bendor at Bandol which is home to two museums – the Exposition Universelle des Vins et Spiritueux that houses thousands of bottles and glasses, and the Museum of Advertising Objects that is dedicated to pastis advertising.  Near Le Brusc, the Île de Embiez was bought by the Ricard Trust and is a tourist getaway from the mainland with no traffic jams, pleasant restaurants and walking trails.  Paul Ricard is buried there at the highest point on the island overlooking the sea.

The Île des Embiez is the final resting place of pastis icon, Paul Ricard

Roger Vadim

Roger Vadim was a director, producer, writer and actor and is perhaps just as well known for his many marriages (including to Brigitte Bardot and Jane Fonda) as his films such as And God Created Woman (1956) and Barbarella (1968).

He died in Paris in 2000 but is buried at the Cimetière Marin in Saint-Tropez – his tomb goes unnoticed to many visitors as it says ‘Vadim Plémiannikov’, not Roger Vadim. 

The Cimetière Marin in St Tropez with sea views (image:  Axel Hupfelds)

This seaside cemetery in Saint-Tropez beneath the Citadelle has a host of interesting people buried there such as Alexandre de Paris who was a celebrated French hairdresser who created Elizabeth Taylor’s hairstyle for Cleopatra, Brigitte Bardot’s’ parents, painter Henri Manguin and jazz figure Edouard Ruault (Eddie Barclay) who has a tombstone decorated with LPs.

Eddie Barclay’s gravesite in Cimetière Marin in St Tropez (image: mapio)

Jean Marais

Jean Marais was a French actor, director, writer and sculptor who acted in over 100 films including Jean Cocteau’s 1946  Beauty and the Beast.  He received an Honorary César Award in 1993 (Césars are the national film award of France).  Five years later, he passed away in Cannes and was buried in the village cemetery in Vallauris.

Pablo Picasso

Pablo Picasso is one of the most recognised names in creative arts and was a familiar figure in Côte d’Azur art circles. He lived and worked in his villa Mas Notre-Dame-de-Vie in Mougins, nicknamed the Minotaur’s Lair.

Mas Notre-Dame-de-Vie in Mougins was Pablo Picasso’s last home (image: Christies)

The villa was previously owned by the Guinness family of Irish beer fame.  Picasso died at his villa in April 1973, but he isn’t actually buried in Mougins – he is buried in the grounds of Château de Vauvenargues.

The villa was sold by auction in October 2017 for €20.2 million.  Video : Picasso’s Mas Notre-Dame-de-Vie

Marc Chagall

‘When Matisse dies, Chagall will be the only painter left who understands what color really is’ – Pablo Picasso 

Marc Chagall was born in Belarus and created works in many styles including painting, ceramics and stained glass.  His stained glass projects can be seen everywhere from the ‘Peace Window’ he created for the United Nations building in New York to the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Reims.

While he is best known for his art, he also worked as a theatrical designer including a commission to create the set and costumes for the New York Metropolitan Opera’s performance in the late 1960’s of Mozart’s The Magic Flute.  His association with France was lengthy and he received France’s highest accolade, the Grand Medal of the Legion of Honor in 1977 and left a rich legacy of work.

The Musée National Marc Chagall is one of the top cultural attractions in Nice and is the largest public collection in the world dedicated to over 800 of his artworks, predominantly his art inspired by religion.

Musée National Marc Chagall in Nice is the largest public collection of Marc Chagall’s work (image: Musées Nationaux)

Marc Chagall is buried in the cemetery below the town walls in the hilltop town of Saint-Paul-de-Vence.  Aimé and Marguerite Maeght who founded the nearby Fondation Maeght art museum are also buried in this cemetery.

Yves Klein

You may be familiar with the striking artworks of Yves Klein who was born in Nice and remembered for the Nouveau Réalisme movement.

In particular, his vivid blue works are quite memorable – you can see his 1962 Venus Bleue at the Musée d’Art Classique de Mougins (Mougins Museum of Classical Art) where it is displayed beside Venus interpretations by Cézanne, Salvador Dali and Andy Warhol.   There aren’t many places in the world where you can find artwork from these 4 artists in the same display cabinet!

Klein died in Paris and is buried in the cemetery in La-Colle-sur-Loup.  I’m sure he’d love tourists to the French Riviera to visit the Mougins Classical Art Museum because it really is a fantastic collection of interesting and rare pieces.   .

The Venus cabinet at the Mougins Museum of Classical Art holds Venus Bleue by Yves Klein

Henri Matisse

Matisse lived in Nice for 37 years and it is here that his presence on the French Riviera is most significant.  He is well known for his work on the Chapelle du Rosaire in Vence, but the Musée Matisse is the crowning achievement of his legacy.

Musée Matisse is located at Cimiez and the neighbouring cemetery has Matisse’s grave

The museum is located in Cimiez and Matisse is buried in the neighbouring Cimetière du Monastère de Cimiez which also has the grave of artist Raoul Dufy.

Isadora Duncan

The Promenade des Anglais in Nice was where American dancer Isadora Duncan tragically lost her life in 1927 in a freak accident.  Known as ‘the barefoot dancer’, she was driving along the road and her scarf blew over the side of the car and wrapped around a wheel, dragging her from the car and breaking her neck.  A small street is named after her, rue Isadora Duncan, leading off Promenade des Anglais.

Emil Jellinek

The name may not ring a bell, but Emil (Emile) Jellinek had a firm influence on the automobile industry.  Born in Germany in 1853, he worked at Daimler-Motoren-Gesellschaft (DMG) autos and proposed to car designers to create a lighter vehicle with a bigger engine.

The result was the Mercedes 35hp and it lead Wilhelm Werner to claim the first victory for Mercedes in a car race, the Nice-Salon-Nice in 1901.  Jellinek’s world-famous trademark he launched in 1902 was named after his daughter, Mercédès.  He changed his surname to Jellinek-Mercédès in 1903.

The 392 kilometre Nice-Salon-Nice race in 1901 was won by a Mercedes car for the first time (image: Daimler Media)

He came to Nice and later worked as the Austro-Hungarian Consulate General owning properties on the Promenade des Anglais – Villa Mercedes at number 57, Villa Mercedes II at number 54 as well as hotel Le Royal.  The family yachts on the French Riviera were also not surprisingly christened Mercedes and Mercedes-Mercedes.   His daughter Mercédès supposedly married her first husband Baron Karl van Schossler in Nice, but I couldn’t find any record of where their huge wedding was held.  I’m sure the details are part of Daimler’s archives 🙂

Monsieur Mercedes as Emil (Emile) Jellinek-Mercédès was nicknamed, is laid to rest in the tomb of his first wife Rachel Goggman Cenrobert in the Cimetière Colline du Château at Castle Hill (Colline du Château) in Nice.

Emil (Emile) Jellinek-Mercédès , Pioneer of Automobiles, is buried in the Cimetière Colline du Château in Nice

This cemetery and the adjacent Jewish cemetery have amazing views over Nice.  There are thousands of graves with some elaborate and beautiful tombstones and cenotaphs.

Many notable people are buried here including:

• Writer Gaston Leroux
• Director and screenwriter Georges Lautner
• René Goscinny who was one of the creators of French comic book Asterix
• Garibaldi’s mother Rosa Garibaldi
• Alfred van Cleef of the Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery family
• Caroline ‘La Belle’ Otéro who was a famous actress/courtesan/dancer whose breasts supposedly inspired the dome design of the Intercontinental Carlton hotel in Cannes
• Menica Rondelly who wrote the Niçois anthem Nissa la Bella
• The daughter of Henri Matisse
• Polishman Baron Leon Wladyslaw Loewenstein of Lenval, who founded Lenval Hospital in Nice after the death of his son in Nice at 11 years of age

Cimetière Colline du Château has wide-reaching views over Nice (image: Tripadvisor)

To reach the cemeteries, you can take the stairs or elevator from the end of Quai des États-Unis up to Parc du Château or walk up Montée Menica Rondelly from Place Ste Claire in Nice Old Town.  The petit train (white tourist train) also goes up to the park.

Brothers in arms

War cemeteries are places of loss, remembrance and sadness but they also have an aura of calm.  One such cemetery that has a picturesque setting is the Belgian Military Cemetery that is located at Pointe Saint-Hospice on the St Jean Cap Ferrat peninsula with a chapel there having a lovely outlook over the sea.

King Leopold II of Belgium converted Villa Les Cèdres into a military hospital during World War I, however many soldiers succumbed to their injuries received from German gas attacks.  The cemetery is a dedication to 90 Belgian soldiers who lost their lives.   Sadly, the cemetery has graves of brothers who died just months apart so its a very poignant place to visit.  We won’t ever know if they got to appreciate the beautiful setting, but visitors to the peninsula can reflect and remember them here.

Video by Gralon:  Belgian Military Cemetery, St Jean Cap Ferrat (Cimetière militaire des Belges)

Princess Grace  

One of the most famous personalities that captured the hearts of France, Monaco and the world was Grace Kelly, an American actress, who became the Princess of Monaco in 1952 when she married Prince Rainier III.

Her global appeal and classic beauty transcended from life to death; even after she lost her life after a car crash on a road bend at Devil’s Curse above Monaco, over 100 million viewers watched her televised funeral.

Contrary to popular belief Grace did not die on the road where she filmed the scenes in Hitchcock film ‘To Catch a Thief’. As you can see from this map, the accident site was miles away. Her life support was turned off a few days after the crash (map: Reel Reviews)

If you visit the Principality and are looking for things to do in Monaco, you can follow a free tour in Monaco with information about Grace, or visit her tomb beside Prince Rainier in the Grimaldi family vault inside the Monaco Cathedral, the same church where they wed.

Other well-known people who are laid to rest in Monaco include entertainer Josephine Baker, artist Jean-Michel Folon who was commissioned for murals at Waterloo station on the London Tube and designs for Puccini’s opera La Bohème, English writer Anthony Burgess who penned A Clockwork Orange and Iranian Princess Ashraf Pahlavi who are all buried in the Monaco cemetery near the Jardin Exotique.

Le Corbusier

Charles-Édouard Jeanneret was born in Switzerland and moved to Paris where he took the pseudonym he is best known for, Le Corbusier.

Le Corbusier changed the face of modern architecture and his furniture and buildings are contemporary studies for design and technology.   Seventeen of his works over seven countries are UNESO World Heritage-listed.

He drowned off the coast of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin and is buried in the Roquebrune cemetery.  There is a lovely coastal walking path from Roquebrune-Cap-Martin to Monaco named after him, Promenade Le Corbusier, and you can visit his minimalist beach cabanon as well as Eileen Gray’s Villa E-1027 by booking through Cap Moderne.

Le Corbusier’s Cabanon can be visited by booking through Cap Moderne

William Webb Ellis

Englishman William Webb Ellis was credited for creating the game of rugby and keen rugby enthusiasts will agree that his final resting place has one of the best views on the French Riviera.  The Vieux Château cemetery in Menton is worth a visit and has spectacular panoramic views over Menton and the sea.

William Webb Ellis’ gravesite in the Vieux Chateau cemetery in Menton

Interestingly, I already knew that the trophy awarded to the winner of the Rugby World Cup is named the Webb Ellis Cup but I didn’t realise that Menton has a rugby-specific trail that features 25 plaques about rugby starting at the Menton train station and leading to the cemetery.  Something I learned while researching this blog and definitely a potential blog topic for the future!

Thanks for reading my post.  I’ve researched a fair bit and learned a lot about famous lives and deaths on the French Riviera.  Have you been to any famous cemeteries or dark tourism sites in France or around the world?

12 Days of Christmas on the French Riviera

Ho ho ho! The festive season has crept up on me once again and I’ve been so busy with my kids picking up every cough or virus found on a school playground, and juggling lots of Christmas events that I didn’t get around to compiling my annual Christmas Market list.

Not to worry, I have put my candy cane-where-my-mouth-is and have been inspired to write a new post. If you are visiting the French  Riviera during the festive season, here is Access Riviera’s take on ‘12 Days of Christmas’ with travel tips, things I like and a few sneaky gift ideas (I promise there will be no partridges in pear trees, or geese-a-laying!).

Joyeux Noel!

1.  Visit the Christmas Markets (Marchés du Noel)

I was slow off the mark in compiling my Christmas Market list this year, however most towns will have a Christmas Market leading up to Christmas Day and some even extend until early January.

We usually visit Antibes and Cannes; other impressive markets are held at Nice and Monaco. For next year, if you want to visit a more traditional market head to Le Rouret (which has already passed a few weeks ago).

Christmas Markets are great for the whole family with wooden chalets selling everything from tree decorations to candy floss and woollen scarves. There are often amusement rides for children, ice skating rinks or luges.

This link has an overview of some of the region’s best markets:

http://sortircotedazur.com/agenda/les-marches-de-noel-sur-la-cote-dazur/

2. Buy some delicious macarons in Cagnes-sur-Mer

Macarons are quintessentially French, and the flavour combinations can be quite surprising. I have to quickly walk past one of our local patisseries because every time we pass by the shop assistant shouts out ‘Bonjour’ to my eldest son who dashes in and immediately starts ordering ‘une fraise et vanille macaron, s’il vous plait’. You know you spend too much time in a patisserie when they are on a first name basis with your child 🙂

If you love macarons, don’t fight the temptation any more – head along to Mic Mac Macaron in Cagnes-sur-Mer for amazing creations from Bruno Laffargue.

Flavours include the classics such as lemon, vanilla, salted caramel and passionfruit through to the more exciting combinations of licorice, apple and cinnamon and chestnut and litchee. Monsieur Laffargue even whips up savoury macarons with notes of truffle and parmesan.

3. Relax in Juan les Pins

Winter is quiet season in Juan les Pins; if there were tumbleweeds available you would definitely see them rolling down the street. So, it’s the perfect time to take advantage of having the seafront promenade, parks and restaurants all to yourself.

I recommend a meal at the beautiful La Passagère at the Hôtel Belles Rives, and if you return to Juan les Pins and want a low-key suggestion for somewhere to stay in warmer months that has good hospitality, book a room at La Villa. La Villa is within walking distance to Port Gallice and Juan les Pins and has modern rooms, free Wifi and free carparking. Don’t forget to ask to buy a bottle of champagne as the hotel owner Vincent is originally from the Champagne region and he and his brother own 2 vineyards there and sell the champagne to hotel guests.

4. Art and indulgence in Mougins

Mougins is filled with top notch restaurants and interesting art galleries and has attracted many creative types – it has been a visiting place for Cocteau, Leger, Man Rey and most famously Pablo Picasso who spent the last 12 years of his life there.

My suggestion is to roam the streets as there are plenty of galleries to see just walking around, or if you prefer a more structured tour visit this link courtesy of the Mougins Tourist Office website here for directions to the town’s galleries and workshops.

I recommend any art / history enthusiast visit the excellent Mougins Museum of Classical Art – highly under rated as an attraction in this region with eclectic collections of Greek and Roman coins and busts, armoury and contemporary art including Damien Hirst’s ‘Happy Head’ skull, ‘Birth of Venus’ by Andy Warhol and ‘Venue Bleue’, the striking blue torso by Yves Klein who is buried in La Colle sur Loup.

After a morning of art overload, head to the 5-star surrounds of Le Mas Candille where you can enjoy a meal at Le Candille overlooking the Mougins valley, or be pampered at their Shiseido Spa with facials or a massage. Check their website prior to booking as they have special offers for the Spa, hotel and restaurant.

5. Scents of France

The French are renowned for perfume creation, and if you have a tendency for olfactory purchases you’ll find it difficult to visit the French Riviera without acquiring a bottle of parfum or two.

Most tourists make a bee line for Grasse, the historic perfume-making centre where you can visit the Musée International de la Parfumerie, or tour one of the perfume factories to learn the process and perhaps join a workshop to blend your very own scent.

If you want to buy perfume you don’t have to look far anywhere on the French Riviera for shelves stocked with major brands as well as limited edition fragrances from exclusive perfume houses. While I know it’s perfectly fine to buy off the shelf at Fragonard, Molinard, Marionnaud and Galeries Lafayette, here are my shopping suggestions if you want something a bit special:

• Parfums Gaglewski is a small perfume shop located on a cobblestoned Grasse street, non-descript it could be a boutique in any French town but the difference lies in the man who owns it. Didier Gaglewski is beyond passionate about perfume and if you’re seeking an authentic and personal experience, this is a good place to start.
• Parfumerie Tanagra on rue Alphonse Kerr in Nice is part of an Institut de Beauté that retails cosmetics, jewellery and leather goods as well as major brands and rare brands of perfumes.
• In Monaco, the chic Paris8 retails all the luxury perfume brands you may need (Chanel, Guerlain, Hermes, D&G etc) as well as rare fragrances (they also have gift sets and gift cards if you need to buy a birthday, Valentines or Christmas present for your significant other). They are also a stockist for the Arquiste Parfumeur range, so if you can grab a bottle of their Fleur de Louis perfume do it before word gets out.

6. Dine in a historic abbey in La Colle sur Loup

Open daily (except Monday and Tuesday in winter), Le 541 is the restaurant of the Hôtel l’Abbaye La Colle sur Loup and is a perfect place to dine in the cloister on a crisp winters day or by the fireplace when the temperature cools down.

This historically-listed monument (formerly known as Abbaye du Canadel) is popular for weddings in the 12^th-century chapel (rumour has it Brigitte Bardot held one of her marriage ceremonies in the chapel) and has a rich history being owned over the centuries by Bishops, Lords, the monks of the Lérins Islands and a former Head Chef of the Negresco Hotel.

7. Spend the day with the kids in Monaco

Monaco has a great Christmas market and often has some of the best festive decorations and lights, especially at place du Casino.

Start the day watching the free Changing of the Guards ceremony outside the Palais Princier at 11.55am sharp, before heading to either the Monaco Oceanarium or Monaco Top Cars.

The Monaco Oceanarium has enough sea life displays to keep even the smallest members of your family entertained and a play area, turtle enclosure and cafeteria on the rooftop offer a nice place to have a break if things start to go pear-shaped inside the museum.

Highlights include the shark lagoon and watching the staff feeding the fish during school holidays. There is a touch pool which is a nice interactive activity for small children – it can’t be pre-booked online but ask at the Ticket Office; an additional €6 fee applies.

Monaco Top Cars located on the Terrasses de Fontvieille is open 10am-6pm daily (except on Christmas Day) and is a superb vehicle collection curated by H.S.H. Prince Rainier III of Monaco with displays across categories such as military, sports cars, vintage, and prestige – there are even horse-drawn carriages to see.

Cool cars for little ones to spot include a 1921 Peugeot Quadrilette, 1928 Hispano Suiza, 1953 Cadillac, 1986 Lamborghini Countach and Maserati. The exhibition space is accessible for families with baby strollers, or persons with restricted mobility.

To finish, treat the kids to some delicious chocolates – my recommendation is the Chocolaterie et Confiserie de Monaco located not far from the Monaco Oceanarium. Kids will be charmed by the Grand Prix and Monaco Circus-themed chocolate boxes, or win them over with yummy chocolates fit for any Petit Prince or Princess shaped like Monagasque crowns.

My Top Tip: If you want to visit the Monaco Oceanarium AND inside the Palais Princier there is a combined ticket available at either Ticket Office.

8. Coffee and culture in Saint Paul de Vence

Saint Paul de Vence is one of the most popular villages in the region, and it’s a ‘go-to’ place if you want to visit somewhere with the right mix of art, culture, authenticity and tourism.

Busy in summer, it is still worthwhile to visit in autumn and winter when the paved streets aren’t so frenetic and you can wander at your own pace without fear of being mowed down by a tourist on a hurried shopping trip before they embark on their tour bus.

For a suggested free tour, read my previous blog post where I designed 2 discovery tours of the village – the first tour is aimed at families who have baby strollers and allows for a few stairs that are manageable; the second tour is aimed at wheelchair-bound tourists and avoids the village’s stairs and tries as much as possible to stick to flat ground.   Feedback is welcome! https://accessriviera.wordpress.com/2012/06/14/sightseeing-saint-paul-de-vence/

These tours in no way replace the excellent guided tours offered by the Saint Paul de Vence Tourist Information Office but are merely my suggestions from on-the-ground knowledge to allow all tourists to experience the village.

Afterwards, stop at the Café de la Place at the village entrance where you can enjoy a coffee as you watch the locals play boules (if you fancy learning what pieds tanqués or cochonnet means, you can hire a boules set from the Tourist Office for €4 per person).

Another excellent attraction is the Fondation Maeght, an art museum surrounded by nature, exhibiting a collection of modern and contemporary paintings and sculptures. The modern architecture of Catalan architect Josep Lluis Sert surrounds the artworks of Giacometti, Adami, Braque, Chagall, Léger, and Calder. The garden encircling the main building is an open-air gallery, where Mediterranean trees coexist with sculptures by Giacometti and Miró, mosaics by Chagall, the pool by Braque, and many other artworks.

My Top Tip: A Côte d’Azur Card gives you free entrance to the Fondation Maeght, the Folon Chapel and the Museum of Local History, plus a tour of the village with a guide from the Saint Paul de Vence Tourist Information Office. The Cards are available for sale at regional Tourist Offices and other sightseeing locations and are worthwhile if you are doing lots of sightseeing.

9. Nice Off The Beaten Path

Nice is a wonderful city with vibrant events, a buzzing Old Town (Vieux Nice) firmly entrenched with Italian heritage, superb restaurants and bars and the longest seafront promenade along the whole French Riviera coast. It also hosts one of the best and biggest regional Christmas markets.

So, how do you find those hidden gems in a city that attracts millions of tourists each year?

Here are a few of my suggestions:

Market life: Every visitor to Nice knows about the flower/fruit/veges/brocante market on Cours Saleya, and many are aware of the fish markets on Place Saint-François and at Marché de la Liberation.

However, in my opinion, 2 of the most interesting markets are found away from Cours Saleya at nearby Place du Palais de Justice.

Here, you’ll find a Book Market (Marché aux livres anciens et d’occasion) held on the 1^st and 3^rd Saturday of each month (Hours: 7am-5pm in winter and 7am-7pm in summer) with second-hand novels, old mariner’s manuals and rare books, complete with dusty and faded patinas.

The last Saturday of each month is a vintage Postcard Market (Marché aux cartes postale anciennes) where you can buy Edwardian postcards of Nice. Keep an eye out for Editions Gilletta postcards, or if you want a collection of vintage keepsakes you can buy one of their books here http://www.editionsgilletta.com/livre/promenade-des-anglais-vues-anciennes

Artisan: Atelier de Reliure is a unique shop indeed. They specialize in using traditional methods to repair old books or photo albums by hand, adapting their working processes depending on the era of the book, leather, paper used, mounting and the binding. They can also create bespoke boxes and cases adorned with gold leaf, family crests or company logos.

Kids: Nice has some excellent children’s stores and my recommendations if you’re looking for funky kids décor, furniture, toys or storage is to head to Emilie & Compagnie or Vibel Nature.

Photography: Anyone interested in photography should make a date to visit Darkroom Galerie on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday or Saturday. They have rotating exhibitions of established and emerging photographers, and offer art tours of Nice as well as online sales of photographs.

Gifts: Located close to Place Rossetti is a fabulous shop for gifts for women (Take note my male readers because this shop will score you brownie points for life). La Boutique du Flacon is something out of a Moulin Rouge-Marie Antoinette dream with glass and crystal perfume atomizers, hand-crafted crystal music boxes, Murano jewellery, fine glass bonbonneries and bathroom jars, pretty photo frames, evening bags and hand-painted contemporary and vintage perfume bottles. Divine!

Cascade de Gairaut: Situated on a hill above Nice, this is a peaceful place for a casual walk beside a canal that passes olive and fig trees.

The cascade is an artificial waterfall that oxygenated the water from the Vésubie before being distributed in the city and was a popular tour stopover in the early 20^th century.

The whole site is listed as a Historic Monument and includes an Austrian-style chalet overlooking the cascade and drop pools with caves complete with fake stalactites – it’s an odd sight in the hills of Nice, but the view is excellent.

For a map and directions for this walk, download the free pdf here (Boucle découverte – Gairaut / Rimiez) https://www.nice.fr/fr/visites-decouverte-de-nice/boucles-decouvertes

10. Venture to Valbonne

Valbonne, literally translated as the ‘good valley’ as it was known as Vallis Bona in past years, is comprised of 2 parts – the old 16^th-century village in the northwest, and the commercial / technological area of Sophia Antipolis in the east, the French Riviera’s equivalent of California’s Silicon Valley.

The village is laid out in a grid pattern and has some lovely shops and restaurants with L’Auberge Provençal at the Valbonne Square an excellent place to sit with a drink and people watch.

Stop into L.A. Galerie to view Ada Loumani’s beautiful glass vases that are both functional and sculptural, or visit Création Boselli – L’Olivieroi, a shop where Jean Pierre Boselli makes products such as mortars, trays, fruit bowls and unique perfume bottles from precious wood.

Afterwards, take a walk along the River Brague that falls under the designation of the Parc Départmental de la Brague; the park contains the remains of the Roman aqueduct that fed Antibes however the remains are unmarked and unsigned (which is actually one of the charms of many of the walks in the region as you stumble across ruins all the time). The trails are pleasant, cool and shaded (so make sure you come back in warmer months when you need to escape the summer heat!).

Another option is to hire vintage motorbikes and explore the Arriere-Pays from Valbonne. Motorent offer a range of classic or retro motorbikes including the 1950’s styling of a Royal Enfield, Triumph Bonneville T100 or a Ducati Scrambler. Specific conditions apply for rentals – if you are an international visitor you will need an international license plus proof of hotel etc – and you will need to check the minimum age and security deposit required.

Suggested scenic itineraries could be the Gorges du Loup, Col de Bleine, the Vésubie and Tinée Valleys, the red rock-lined roads of the Gorges du Cians with a detour to Entrevaux (between June and September, you can visit the free Motorcycle Museum ) or the Gorges de l’Estaron where heading to St Auban you pass a surprising chapel grotto cut into the rock.

11. Grab your holiday essentials in Cannes

Christmas is a busy period for travel, with people arriving and departing by car, plane, bus or train to visit friends and family for the festive season.

If you’re heading somewhere over the holiday break, Cannes is a great place to stock up on last-minute gifts or any holiday essentials you’ll need for a getaway.

Tumi opened its first luggage store (24 rue du Commandant André) in Cannes earlier this year, and if you’re a frequent jetsetter you’ll easily find a stylish overnight bag or suitcase that will take the knocks and bumps that come with travelling. Grab some luggage then cross the road for lunch or coffee at Bobo Bistro.

Treat your body to goodies from French chain L’Occitane, who make things easy at Christmas with a large range of pre-packaged gift sets, then skip along to Pharmacie Anglo-Française who retail the amazing Marvis toothpaste imported from Italy. If you’ve never tried Marvis toothpaste, the apothecary-inspired tubes are beautiful and it has a range with flavours such as Ginger Mint and Amarelli Licorice. Conveniently they come in standard size and travel sized miniatures. If there was ever a time to rave about toothpaste this is my chance.

For fun, colourful and kitschy gifts, Pylones on rue d’Antibes has everything from astronaut lamps to quirky earbuds and bento boxes. A great place for stocking fillers if you can’t be bothered with the €2 Shops or Maxi Bazaars.

Slick and modern, Projecteurs name drops Dries van Noten, Marni and Giambattista Valli among its list of designers represented in their contemporary store. Retailing clothing, shoes, skincare, accessories and jewellery for both men and women you can pick up high-end designer items pricing hundreds of euros upwards or stocking stuffers including cartoon-themed USB sticks for under €20. Check out their website as they add end-of-line stock under the ‘Outlet’ section where you can often buy designer goods at 50% discount.

I love StyleJunky’s byline – Babies Welcome, Dogs Welcome, Beginners Welcome, Try on something you can’t afford – spend now, worry later. It’s a fitting mantra for a cool store that seamlessly makes fashion more than just about style. They stock international and emerging designers as well as skin care from Mad et Len and outrageous sneakers from Golden Goose Deluxe Brand that are sure to get your feet noticed.

12. Hit the slopes

The Alpes-Maritimes region has 15 ski resorts to suit all abilities with most set up with accommodation, ski schools, ski hire shops and restaurants. The closest resort to the coast is Gréolières-des-Neiges, though more reliable snow and more facilities are found at Isola 2000, Auron, Valberg and La Foux d’Allos which has the most extensive network in the region (180 kms of pistes).

You can hire skis, snowboards, helmets up at the resorts though its advisable to take your own ski clothing if possible especially during school holidays when demand is high. Nothing kills a ski trip faster than having no gear.

For webcams, weather and resort info for Isola 2000: http://hiver.isola2000.com/webcam

For webcams, weather and resort info for Auron: http://hiver.auron.com/

If you prefer, you can also hire equipment down on the coast and transport it with you; sometimes the rates can be cheaper than at the resorts. A few suggested hire shops are Aventure Cote d’Azur (Nice) and Newrider (Antibes).

My Top Tips: Departing from outside the main train station in Nice, Lignes Azur operate a ‘100% Neige’ bus service that goes daily to Auron, Isola 2000, Valberg** and on weekends to La Colmiane**, and Le Boréon**. (** Valberg, La Colmiane, Le Boréon service commences 19 December). The journeys take 2 hours plus so bear that in mind.

Tickets can be pre-booked online at www.lignesazur.com from the French website as the English version doesn’t have the booking facility – cost: €4 oneway / €8 return online, instead of €5 / €10 with no pre-booking. The bus timetables are found here: http://www.lignesdazur.com/ftp/documents_FR/FlyerDec2015_100p100neigeBD.pdf

Isola and Auron have Vente Flash (Flash Sales) on Tuesdays after 8 pm where you can get lift tickets for half price, go to their websites to snap up the deals each Tuesday night as passes are limited.

Thanks for reading my ’12 Days of Christmas’ blog post! If you liked it, please share on Facebook or Twitter.

Joyeux Noel to all my readers and best wishes for a happy and prosperous 2016 from Becks at Access Riviera.

 

 

 

 

What To Do on a Rainy Day on the French Riviera

Last Sunday we planned to take our son to the Cannes Film Festival.  The weather forecast was for rain, but undeterred we packed our umbrellas, coats and rain cover for the baby stroller.

We walked along the Croisette and took tourist photos of the red carpet and billboards hyping the latest movie premieres, though sadly there were no celebrity stars to be seen.

The rain did come, so we sheltered at a kiosk on the promenade drinking espresso while our son slept soundly under his rain cover.

Rain is rare on the French Riviera, however on those few days when the outdoors are wet and grey there are plenty of indoor family activities to keep everyone entertained.

Here are some suggestions for rainy day activities:

ANTIBES

• Take the family bowling at Bowling d’Antibes, 1er ave Nova Antipolis, 06600 Antibes.
• Indoor soft play centre – Royal Kids – with climbing equipment, slides, ball pits, electric cars (additional charge), cafeteria selling hot and cold drinks, snacks.  Wheelchair and baby stroller accessible premises, free car parking outside or accessible via bus from Antibes. Read my review of Royal Kids here www.royalkids.fr
• Y’a Un Croco dans l’Atélier is located near the main playgrounds in Antibes Old Town and offer arts and crafts workshops for 4 years upwards. Possible to drop-in during school holidays without reservation. €10 for a 1-hr workshop including instruction and materials, or half-day and fll-day rates.
• Try the Junior Ceramic Artist Workshop with Céramic Créa, 94 boulevard Beau Rivage Prolongé, 06600 Antibes.  From age 5, children are introduced to ceramics and decorative techniques, and can decorate their own piece (the ceramics are fired and ready for collection 8 days later).  2.5 hour workshops including a snack break.  More information is at www.ceramic-crea.com
• Visit the Comic Strips Cafe near the Antibes cinema, 3 avenue du 24 Août, Antibes – lots of colourful comics, and figurines.  www.comic-strips-cafe.com
• Have fun at Laser Quest Antibes (172 avenue Weisweiller, near to Royal Kids and Quick/McDonalds roundabout).
• Tip Top Kids have a Ludothèque indoor play corner suitable for 0-4 years and various activities and workshops for ages 1-7 years including music, baby gym, kids yoga and Montessori workshops.

BIOT

• While away a few hours at the Musée national Fernand Léger, chemin du Val de Pome, 06410 Biot.  Permanent art exhibitions, boutique and cafeteria onsite.  Wheelchair accessible and disabled toilet facilties.  http://www.musees-nationaux-alpesmaritimes.fr/fleger/

CAGNES-SUR-MER / HAUT-DE-CAGNES

• For 6 years and older, free guided tour and chance to create your own fragrance (reservations essential).  Atelier des Parfums, 43 chemin des Presses, 06800 Cagnes sur Mer.
• Visit the Château Grimaldi with its Musée d’Olivier and Suzy Solidor art collection
• Go to the Cap’Cinéma cinema at the Polygone shopping complex (for English language movies, look for those labelled ‘VO’ which means Version Originale).

CANNES/CANNES LA BOCCA

• There is an indoor soft play centre/playground at Fun City Cannes La Bocca (refer to Activities – Playgrounds blog post).
•  Take the family bowling at Cannes Bowling, 189 ave Frances Tonner, Cannes La Bocca.
• For ages 8 years and older, practise laser shooting individually or in teams at Laser Quest Cannes, 28 avenue des Arlucs, 06150 Cannes La Bocca.  Venue also has snack vending machines and air hockey table.  www.lqcannes.com
• Kids cooking classes are available at Ecole Lenôtre Cannes, 63 rue d’Antibes, 06400 Cannes.  Choose from ‘Cuisine’ or ‘Patisserie’.  Ages 8 years and older.  www.lenotre.com
•  Junior cooking classes at Les Apprentis Gourmets are held regularly on Wednesdays.  Suitable for ages 6-12 years. A one-hour session creating 3 sweet or savoury dishes costs €32, pricing subject to change.  www.lesapprentisgourmets.fr

GRASSE:

• Design your own fragrance in Grasse, the Mecca of perfume.  Workshops available where you learn about composing a perfume, then create your own unique fragrance to take home with you, with the perfume formula and a diploma.  Note: Children must be accompanied by an adult.  More information at www.molinard.com
• Cooking classes for kids aged 3 years and upwards at Candyplaychoco.  They have themed classes through the year (Easter, Halloween etc) and also host birthday parties.

JUAN LES PINS:

• Indoor arcade Luna Park with arcade games, air hockey, Daytona car and motorbike race games, dance games.  More suited for school age children.  12 boulevard Edouard Baudoin (situated on bus route from Antibes (Envibus route 1), there is a bus stop outside the arcade named ‘Luna Park’).

MONACO/MONTE CARLO:

• Plan a visit to this art and craft workshop for ceramic painting, mosaics, clay model-making, jewellery-making with beads, and a cuddly toy factory – Les Artistes du Soleil, 16-18 boulevard de la Republique, 06240 Beausoleil.
• Probably the most popular rainy day activity, don’t exclude a visit to the Monaco Oceangraphic Museum (avenue Saint Martin, MC 98000 Monaco) for fear of crowds, it has over 6000 species of fish, corals and other sealife in aquariums, a natural history display and various temporary exhibitions.  Take the elevator to the roof-top cafeteria, pull out your umbrella and go outside for the best panoramic view over Monaco.  Entrance fee payable.  www.oceano.mc
• NiBOX, an indoor amusement and attraction space with billiards, 10-pin bowling, arcade games including driving games and air hockey, mini football. www.nibox.mc

MOUGINS:

• Visit the Mougins Museum of Classical Art to learn about  history and see collections of old and modern art.

NICE:

• Take your time browsing contemporary art at the free Modern and Contemporary Art Museum of Nice (MAMAC), Promenade des Arts, 06364 Nice.
• Take the family bowling at Bowling Nice Acropolis, 5 Esplanade Kennedy, 06300 Nice.
• Experience a parent and child cooking class with Aude Bertaux – taylor-made recipes that are fun and easy.  Make something tasty and sit in the garden afterwards to savour it. Saturday classes for 3-6 years; Wednesday classes for 6-12 years.  At Cuisine sur Cours, 75 avenue A. Borriglione, 06100 Nice. www.cuisinesurcours.com
• Make your own holiday scrapbook or mosaic – there are plenty of arts and crafts pieces for sale at L’arret Creation, 7 rue de Russie, 06000 Nice.
• Create clay objects that can be fired and taken home at a pottery workshop for ages 3 and older.  Ateliers de Magali, 26 rue Bonaparte, 06300 Nice
• Musée de la Curiosité – 39 rue Beaumont 06300 Nice, is a curiosity museum with displays of magic and rare and unusual objects. There is a Tarzan room, ‘haunted’ living area, optical illusions, vintage dolls and toys, automated brass band. Open Wed-Sun 2pm-7pm, and also bank holidays and every day during school holidays. Onsite restaurant with formules available (entrance + meal). Wheelchair and pushchair accessible. Admission fee payable. www.museedelacuriosite.com
• Confiserie Florian sweet factory at Nice port offers free guided tours every day of the year including Sundays and bank holidays from 9am-12pm and 2pm-6pm, and free tastings. Watch them creating jams, sweets and chocolates (They also have another factory in Tourrettes sur Loup). www.confiserieflorian.co.uk

TOURRETTES SUR LOUP:  

• The second Confiserie Florian sweet factory, offers free guided tours in 5 languages and also cooking classes at their location in Tourrettes (surcharge applies). Reservations for the cooking classes can be booked via  creatyvesculi@aol.com or Telephone : +33 (0)4 92 11 06 94.  Their Tourettes address is Le Pont du Loup, 06140 Tourettes-sur-Loup.

SAINT LAURENT DU VAR:

• The Nature et Decouvertes shop in the Cap 3000 shopping complex offers free Wednesday workshops for kids 6 years upwards, from 2pm-3pm.  Learn about ecology, flowers, art and animals.  http://www.natureetdecouvertes.com/magasins/alpes-maritimes/nice-cap-3000

SAINT PAUL DE VENCE:

• Browse some contemporary art in an architecturally-interesting building with landscaped grounds – there are enough sculptures, paintings, drawings, graphic art to keep the family interested at Fondation Maeght, 623 chemin des Gardettes, 06570 St-Paul de Vence.  Entrance fee payable.

VENCE:

• Y’a Un Croco dans l’Atélier offer arts and crafts workshops for 4 years upwards. Possible to drop-in during school holidays without reservation. €10 for a 1-hr workshop including instruction and materials, or half-day and fll-day rates.

VILLENEUVE LOUBET:

• HiTech2Move is an indoor play concept with lighted dance mats, climbing wall, throwing wall, interactive cycle game, kickboxing game and lighted floor mats.  It is located next to Atlas and Fly home décor stores.  Open Wed afternoons, and Sat/Suns and all days during school holidays.  €12 per child, suitable for ages 6 years and up.  www.hitech-2move.com

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